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Fall 2006 Peony
Availability
There's
Nothing Quite Like Peonies!
 The
peony fields of Sherman Nursery Company are breathtaking! Rows of red,
pink and white blanket the earth. Approximately 125,000 peonies will be
harvested this year, thanks to the prime climate here in Northeast Iowa and
the experience of our production team. We offer generous peony clumps in
double, single and Japanese varieties.
Huge
masses of vivid
blossoms are what draw you in and keep gardeners coming back for more. These
long-lived perennials, if properly taken care of, will survive harsh winters
and continue to delight us in the spring.
 Dividing
and Planting Peonies
The
best time to divide and plant a peony is September. Here are a few tips for
successful peony division and planting.
To
Divide A Peony
-
Cut
plant stems down to ground level.
-
Carefully
dig plants and shake gently to remove soil.
-
Cut
clump into sections making sure that each section has 3-5 eyes and a
portion of the root system.
To
Plant A Peony
-
Dig
a hole 18 inches deep and 18 inches wide.
-
Break
up any large clods of soil and add organic matter, if needed.
-
Add
1/4 cup 5-10-5 fertilizer to half the soil and place this soil into the
bottom of the hole.
-
Add
soil without fertilizer to adjust the soil height so the peony division
may be properly placed.
-
Plant
the peony so that the eyes are approximately 2 inches below the soil
surface in the north, 1 to 1 1/2 inches in southern sections of the United
States.
-
Water
thoroughly throughout the fall and mulch with 3 inches of straw in late
fall. Remove mulch when growth resumes in the spring.
 Where
To Plant Peonies
Select a
sunny, well-drained location for your peonies. They will tolerate some
shade, but should have at least a half-day of sunshine. The best blooms are
usually found on plants growing in full sunlight. Do not plant near large
trees or heavy shrubs where they would be robbed of necessary moisture and
plant food. Plants may be spaced from two to four feet apart according to
desired effect in the landscape. If you wish to develop large specimen
clumps, space them four feet apart. Peonies prefer a soil that tests 6.5 pH.
Some landscaping ideas include: borders, group plantings, mass plantings,
plant with other shrubs, perennials, bulbs or annuals to provide color and
texture when peonies are done blooming.
Planting
Peonies In Pots & Suggested Pot Sizes
Peonies like a
"heavier" soil rather than some "artificial" mixes on
the market. Perhaps use top soil or bark. Use triple phosphate or rock
phosphate in the mix. One of our customers shared a mix that works excellent
for potting peonies.
| PERCENT
#/YD |
MIX
TYPE |
| 85% |
Bark |
| 15% |
Peat |
| 20
#/ YD |
Turkey
Litter |
| 5
#/ YD |
Osmocote
13-13-13 |
| 2
#/ YD |
Micro
Max |
| 5
#/ YD |
Lyme |
| 2
#/ YD |
Gypsum |
If potting in the fall, place in unheated hut or put a
mulch over to induce root growth and no top growth. Keep from freezing and
thawing. Place rodent bait if you have a rodent problem. Rodents love
peonies. Suggested pot sizes are as follows:
| 3-5
eye divisions |
#2
container |
| 5-8
eye divisions |
#3
container |
| 9-14
eye divisions |
#5
container |
| 15-25
eye divisions |
#7
container |
Fertilizing
Peonies
If your ground
has been properly enriched at planting time, there will be little need for
further fertilization for some years. The type of soil will determine the
frequency. Porous soils lose their fertility faster than others, as it is
washed out by the rains. Keep all fertilizer away from the crowns of the
plants; there are no feeding roots there. Spread it over the area where the
roots grow, from six to eighteen inches from the crown and thoroughly
incorporate it with the soil. Use it with discretion. Over-fertilized plants
will not bloom well and soon run their course. About a handful of commercial
fertilizer or one or more of bone-meal to a plant will be plenty.
 Watering
Peonies
Water your
peony plants immediately after planting so that the soil settles well around
the roots. During the spring months, there is usually enough moisture in the
ground for peony plants, but if several weeks pass without rain, give them a
good watering once every two weeks. This should also be done during the dry
summer months after the peonies have bloomed to ensure a good crop of
flowers the following year.
Winter
Protection
Newly planted
peonies should be given winter protection for the first winter after
planting. After the ground has frozen in fall, give them a covering of straw
or marsh hay about three inches deep. This covering will protect the plants
against heaving due to alternate thawing and freezing. Remove the covering
very early in spring. Established plants need no winter protection. When
foliage has turned brown in fall, after the first heavy frost, cut the
plants down as near to the ground as possible. Burn all the old stems and
leaves as a protection against disease.
What
To Expect From Your Peonies
The
first spring after planting, a standard division will make one or more stems
six or more inches high. Do not be discouraged if growth is low and only one
stem appears. It may bloom and it may not. Do not worry if it does not. Many
growers do not allow a plant to bloom the first year. If you allow the plant
to bloom, cut the flower as soon as it fades directly below the bloom. Do
not allow seed to form. First year peony blooms rarely give a true picture
of the variety.
The
second year, the number of stems is usually double the number that came the
first year. Growth is taller. If there are blooms, they are nearer normal.
Cut all blooms immediately after flowering, with short stems. Some varieties
take several years to produce normal flowers.
The
third year growth generally doubles that of the second year. Blooms should
be normal in every way. Do not cut the stems too long. While the finest
flowers are produced from plants 4-10 years old, many varieties have been
known to give exhibition blooms for 20 or more years. Plants that have been
well cared for will even outlive the gardener. If they are forced into
abnormal growth by the use of stimulants, they will give out in a few years.
Why
Do Peonies Fail To Bloom?
There are many reasons, but
here are the most common:
- Plants are too young and
immature. Let them develop.
- Plants are planted too
deep. If eyes are more than 3 inches under ground, raise to proper height
of 2 inches.
- Large clumps planted
without proper division. Dig, divide into small or standard divisions and
plant.
- Plants have too much
competition from surrounding trees and shrubs.
- Plants have too much shade
which encourages tall leafy plants and no blooms. Move.
- Too much nitrogen was
applied which encourages foliage not flowers. Phosphorous or potassium
will strengthen roots.
- Plants are undernourished.
Buds show, but do not develop. Fertilize to add strength.
- Buds killed by late frost.
- Excessively hot weather.
Late, full double varieties often fail from this cause.
- Buds attacked by thrips
will turn brown and fall. Spray to prevent this.
- Buds that become water
logged will turn brown and refuse to open. Bagging would help.
- Ground is too dry. Water
down to the bottom of roots.
- Roots infected with
nematodes or root-knot. Destroy.
Contact us
if you have further questions about peonies!
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